Choosing the Right Yarn for Kniterate

The yarn you choose plays a decisive role in machine knitting. It influences not only the look, feel and drape of the finished fabric, but also how reliably the machine knits, which techniques you can use and which settings you need. This guide is a starting point to help you understand how different yarns behave on a Kniterate machine. From there, research, experimentation and sampling are the best ways to find the materials that work for your projects.

Understanding Different Types of Yarn

Yarns can be classified according to the origin of their fibres and how they are produced. Common categories include animal fibres, such as wool and alpaca; plant fibres, such as cotton, linen and hemp; synthetic fibres, such as polyester, nylon and acrylic, which are generally made from petrochemical raw materials; and regenerated cellulosic fibres, such as viscose, lyocell and bamboo-derived viscose, which are made by chemically processing cellulose from plant sources.

You can experiment with many different types of yarn on Kniterate, provided the yarn is suitable for the machine and its feeding system. However, yarn count alone does not determine whether a yarn will work well. Its construction, thickness consistency, elasticity, surface texture and friction also influence its performance. As a general guideline, Kniterate works best with yarns in the Nm 6–8 range, although suitability depends on the specific yarn and the fabric you want to produce.

Not every yarn works equally well with every pattern or stitch structure. Some yarns may knit perfectly in plain jersey but cause problems when working with transfers, racking or more complex structures. Always knit a test swatch before starting a larger project, and be prepared to adjust the machine settings to achieve the desired result.

Every Yarn Needs Its Own Settings

Different yarns behave differently, even when they are made from the same fibre and have the same yarn count. Differences in twist, ply, spinning method, finishing and surface friction can all affect how a yarn feeds through the machine and forms stitches.

When sampling, adjust the relevant settings gradually, including stitch size, carriage speed and yarn tension where applicable. Keep track of the settings that produce the best results, and record any issues you encounter.

Keep a record of every sample. Write down the yarn composition, manufacturer, yarn count, ply, machine settings, stitch structure and any finishing treatments. Attach this information to the knitted sample or store it alongside a photograph. Over time, you will build a useful library of yarns, settings and techniques that you can refer to when developing future projects.

How Different Fibres Behave on the Machine

Wool and other animal fibres

Wool has natural elasticity and resilience, which can help it tolerate the repeated movement involved in machine knitting. Many wool yarns also have a slightly textured surface that provides useful friction during feeding. These properties often make wool relatively forgiving to work with.

However, not all wool yarns behave the same way. Highly twisted, loosely spun or hairy yarns may require different settings, and some can shed fibres or create feeding issues. Alpaca and other animal fibres may also have less elastic recovery than wool, depending on their composition and construction.

Cotton and linen

Cotton and linen have little natural elasticity compared with wool. They generally do not recover from stretching as readily, which means they can be less forgiving when yarn tension or stitch formation is inconsistent.

These yarns require particular attention during sampling. Check that the yarn feeds smoothly and that the stitches form consistently without excessive tension or yarn breakage. Patterns involving frequent transfers or racking can be more challenging with inelastic yarns, especially linen, so test these operations carefully before knitting a full piece.

Fluffy and hairy yarns

Yarns such as mohair, brushed alpaca and other hairy varieties can catch on neighbouring yarns, especially when several feeders are in use. Loose fibres may become entangled, causing feeding problems or interfering with stitch formation.

One way to reduce the yarn's swing as it unwinds from the cone is to place the cone inside a loose plastic bag, allowing the yarn to exit through an opening. Ensure the yarn can still unwind freely and that the bag cannot become caught in moving parts. Never allow loose plastic to come into contact with the carriage or other moving components.

When working with multiple fluffy yarns, consider threading them through feeders that are not adjacent, where the pattern and machine setup allow it. This can help reduce tangling between neighbouring yarns. Always monitor the first rows closely when testing a new combination.

Viscose and other slippery yarns

Viscose, lyocell and other smooth, silky yarns can have very low surface friction. Depending on their construction, they may slide easily on the cone, unwind unevenly or behave differently from more textured yarns.

Some cones come with a thin, tight nylon mesh or tubular netting around the yarn to help hold it in place. If the yarn is intended to be knitted with this covering left on, keep it in place rather than removing it: once removed, it can be difficult to put back on correctly. The netting may also help control the unwinding of some yarns, but it is not suitable for every yarn or cone. Check that the yarn feeds freely and that the covering does not introduce additional resistance or snagging.

Because slippery yarns can feed differently from wool or cotton, pay close attention to stitch consistency and yarn delivery. Test the yarn at a low carriage speed first, then adjust the settings as needed.

Fancy and novelty yarns

Fancy yarns, including slub, flame, sequin, bouclé and other irregular constructions, can be difficult to knit reliably. Thick sections, loops, knots or attached decorative elements may become caught in the needles or yarn feeders, interrupting the knitting process or potentially damaging components.

If you want to experiment with a novelty yarn, inspect it along its length for bulky sections or protruding elements, and test a small amount at low speed while closely monitoring the machine. Do not force the yarn through the feeding system if it catches or fails to form stitches consistently.

Yarn Tension: Finding the Right Balance

Yarn tension is one of the most important factors in successful machine knitting. The yarn needs enough resistance to feed consistently and form stitches correctly, but excessive tension can stretch the yarn, cause breakage or interfere with stitch formation.

As a general rule, finer yarns often require more resistance than thicker yarns to achieve consistent feeding and stitch formation. However, this is only a starting point, not a universal rule. The ideal tension depends on the yarn's construction, elasticity, friction, weight and the stitch structure being knitted.

Too little resistance may result in loose or inconsistent stitches, while too much can cause yarn breakage, tight stitches or irregular fabric. Observe how the yarn feeds and how the stitches form, and make small adjustments rather than changing several parameters at once.

The Most Important Rule: Test, Observe and Record

There is no single setting that works for every yarn. Even familiar materials can behave unexpectedly when their construction, finish or thickness changes. Start with a small swatch, monitor the machine, adjust one parameter at a time and record the results.

With experience, you will develop a better understanding of how different yarns respond to the machine and which materials are best suited to particular patterns and techniques. Sampling is not just a preliminary step: it is an essential part of the machine-knitting process.