Protein-based fibres are natural fibres made primarily of proteins produced by animals. They include wool from sheep, as well as alpaca, cashmere, mohair, angora, and silk. These fibres have been used for centuries to make clothing and textiles because of their warmth, softness, strength and distinctive textures.
Unlike plant-based fibres such as cotton and linen, which are mainly composed of cellulose, animal fibres have a protein structure that gives them different physical properties. Wool, for example, contains keratin, a protein also found in human hair. Its natural crimp and elasticity allow it to stretch and recover, making it particularly well suited to knitted fabrics.
Wool: A Natural Choice for Machine Knitting
Wool is one of the most versatile fibres for knitting. Its natural elasticity and resilience allow it to tolerate repeated movement and tension, often making it easier to work with on a knitting machine than less elastic fibres. Wool fibres also have a scaly surface that creates friction, helping the fibres hold together in spun yarns.
Wool provides excellent insulation because its crimp helps trap air within the fibre and fabric structure. It can absorb moisture without immediately feeling wet, and it is naturally resilient, allowing knitted garments to recover their shape after being stretched or compressed.
Different sheep breeds produce wool with different characteristics. Fine merino wool is known for its softness, while coarser wool varieties can offer greater structure and durability. Wool yarns can also vary significantly depending on how they are spun, how much twist they contain and whether they are single-ply or plied.
For Kniterate, wool is often a good starting point when experimenting with machine knitting. Its elasticity can make it more forgiving during stitch formation, although the yarn still needs to be suitable for the machine. Very hairy, loosely spun or uneven wool yarns may cause feeding problems, while highly twisted yarns can behave differently from softer, bulkier constructions.
Other Animal Fibres
Although wool is the most familiar animal fibre, several others offer interesting possibilities for machine knitting.
Alpaca is valued for its softness, warmth and drape. It generally has less natural crimp and elastic recovery than sheep's wool, so fabrics may stretch more easily and retain their shape less effectively. Blending alpaca with wool can help improve resilience.
Cashmere comes from the fine undercoat of cashmere goats. It is lightweight, soft and warm, making it desirable for luxury knitwear. Its delicate fibres require appropriate yarn construction and careful handling to achieve durable knitted fabrics.
Mohair, produced by Angora goats, is known for its lustre, strength and characteristic halo. Brushed mohair yarns can create airy, fluffy fabrics, but their loose fibres may catch on neighbouring yarns or other parts of the knitting setup. Extra care is needed when using hairy yarns, particularly when several feeders are active.
Angora, obtained from Angora rabbits, is exceptionally soft and lightweight. Its fine, fluffy fibres create a distinctive halo but can shed and become entangled, making some yarn constructions more challenging to handle on a knitting machine.
Silk is also a protein-based fibre, but unlike wool and the other examples above, it is produced by silkworms. Silk filaments are long, smooth and strong, with a natural lustre and excellent drape. Silk yarns can be slippery and have relatively little natural stretch, so consistent feeding and appropriate tension are particularly important.
What to Consider When Knitting with Animal Fibres
Animal fibres do not all behave alike. Wool is generally elastic and resilient, whereas alpaca, silk and some other animal fibres have less natural recovery. The yarn's construction can be just as important as its fibre content: a tightly twisted yarn may feed and form stitches differently from a fluffy, loosely spun yarn, even if both are made from the same fibre.
When selecting an animal-fibre yarn for Kniterate, consider:
- Yarn count: Kniterate generally works best with yarns in the Nm 6–8 range, although suitability depends on yarn construction and the intended fabric.
- Elasticity and recovery: These influence how the yarn responds to tension and how well the knitted fabric retains its shape.
- Hairiness: Loose fibres can catch on neighbouring yarns and interfere with feeding.
- Twist and ply: These affect yarn strength, smoothness, stability and stitch formation.
- Care and finishing: Some animal fibres are sensitive to heat, agitation or changes in moisture, which can affect the finished fabric.
Always knit a test swatch before beginning a larger project. Check the feeding behaviour, stitch consistency and fabric dimensions, and wash or finish the sample as you intend to treat the final garment.
Animal fibres offer a wide range of textures and performance characteristics, from the resilience of wool to the smoothness of silk. Understanding these differences will help you select the right yarn for both your design and the technical demands of machine knitting.